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Well, maybe I should have mentioned it earlier, but whatever. The black color is only visible through the polarizing film. When I took it apart, I could see the intended shapes on the LCD as well as this liquid, no obvious crack, so I doubt it's oxidation, but still probably not fixable. It may not be cracked, it might just be the two pieces of glass separating slightly along the side exposing the liquid crystal (likely not visible to the naked eye). But either way, it's unfixable without the equipment used to actually manufacture LCD screens. The liquid crystal is never visible without the polarizing filters. I suspect it was damaged in some way by being dropped, and the black 'cloud' will likely get larger over time. In theory, you could actually separate the glass layers, clean out the crystal completely and still be able to see the sprites (barely), but they'd be damn hard to photograph like that. They are sort of etched into the glass (I assumed it's a conductive material bonded to the glass, never really looked into who these are manufactured...) Not the easiest solution, but usable if there's no other option. The circuit board looks fine though, the weird stippling you see on it is just how the green 'paint' layer was applied (or dried) when it was manufactured. Did you remove the speaker to see if there's markings on the chip on that side?
Last edited by Rik; 12/08/15 12:10 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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update: I verified Mattel dnd and Tomy Pinball, and prepared the PLAs. Adding them to MAME should go fine...
I'm happility addicted to Fallout 4, coding time gets 2nd place. ;(
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The circuit board looks fine though, the weird stippling you see on it is just how the green 'paint' layer was applied (or dried) when it was manufactured. I know a thing or two about PCBs and it's definitely some kind of damage, salt water probably. The actual texture doesn't come out very good in the pictures. Did you remove the speaker to see if there's markings on the chip on that side? I did not, but looking under it sideways just reveals a convex epoxy shape with no visible markings. If there aren't any other takers, I'll ship it off to Sean. cYa, Tauwasser
Last edited by Tauwasser; 12/11/15 08:18 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2015
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The circuit board looks fine though, the weird stippling you see on it is just how the green 'paint' layer was applied (or dried) when it was manufactured. I know a thing or two about PCBs and it's definitely some kind of damage, salt water probably. The actual texture doesn't come out very good in the pictures. I have (and have had) several of these Russian games before, and have seen the same thing on more than one of them... It's just whatever the green coating is being poorly made. Is it flaking off? If it is, and you remove it, the board looks fine underneath. It might be something different on yours, but I've never seen liquid damage on a circuit board that didn't leave behind other evidence (corrosion, rust, residue from the liquid, etc...) I just made that comment as yours looks exactly like a couple of these 'Elektronika' games I've had in the past... I'd say Sean's the best option though, send 'em his way.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,368 Likes: 120
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Tomy Pinball and Mattel D&D are added to MAME and working. We'll need a volunteer for external artwork for the pinball game. The D&D boardgame however will be hard to play with or without external artwork. The artwork system would need to be more versatile. A developer could use the emulation to make an accurate simulator app though.
I'm working on MR Challenger and Spelling B now, some bit fixes here for the raw files: mrchallenger273raw_fix1.bin: - offset $0CF change $3A to $2A - offset $105 change $F2 to $B2 spellingb1984raw_fix1.bin: - offset $532 change $00 to $04 spellingb272raw_fix1.bin: - offset $656 change $9D to $9C - offset $8B0 change $9F to $9E
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Joined: May 2010
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Thanks- I updated the files on my site. I've got a couple of PIC1655As dumped as well as some of the bare chips incog sent me. I'll get those uploaded over the next couple of days.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,368 Likes: 120
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I'm finally back! (...) and a ton of calculators. Whew! By the way Sean, I'm getting curious :P which calculators did you get? IMHO TMS0952 and 0972 are worth getting. Especially as the 0972 was licensed to multiple manufacturers. For a weird example of it, see http://www.datamath.org/Related/Concept2000/Barbie.htm
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Joined: May 2010
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I bought a couple of lots off ebay, and wound up with: TI57, TI55, The MBA, SR 51A, TI57 LCD, TI1025 and TI5025. I've also got Canon Palmtronic 8 and Palmtronic LD-8M 2, Lloyd's Accumatic 200, Corvus 312, Radio Shack EC-281, Sharp EL-218, Sears Pocket PD12, APF Mark 31, Novus 850, Montgomery Ward P50 and Commodore MM2SR.
I just bought a TI1200 and TI1250 (maybe I'll get lucky and one will have the 0952 and the other the 0972), but I only found the Barbie in a lot of 4, for too much $$$$.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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I'm certain TMS0972 is same in each, so decapping/dumping one from a cheap calc and we can practically emulate all of them. Including the Barbie ;P
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Joined: Mar 2002
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Did the Spelling B I bought for you include the booklet? I think the manual for the one on datamath is for the 2nd revision hw. Speaking of the 3.9MB one here http://www.datamath.org/Edu/SpellingB.htmIf you have it, is it equal? On MAME, I'm getting mismatched numbers, for example: 26 = nurse 85 = broom 64 = chain It also locks up on me sometimes, I'll look into that. The Hangman game mode works fine. *edit* WIP driver: http://git.redump.net/mame/tree/src/mame/drivers/tispellb.cppalso, datamath includes Math Marvel in the same list. but you see I didn't put it in the driver comments. It actually is the same hardware as DataMan: 1 MCU only, no TMS0355 ROM.
Last edited by hap; 12/21/15 08:45 PM.
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