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I thought the smallest bad guys on Lone Ranger looked like Freddy Kreuger More like Crab People Btw, why not to use the descreening filter on the backgrounds to remove those offset printing circles? These aren't visible to the eye on the real thing, but are perfectly visible and annoying on the modern displays even if resized and opened in the small window. Oops, I meant to reply to this and forgot. I tried my scanner's descreening filter when I scanned the backgrounds, but it definitely made them look fuzzier, and I couldn't decide which looked better. It's likely that someone has a better descreening filter that could be applied to the backgrounds.
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Spelling B 1979 emulated and working =)
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Cool! I posted the Sears Follow Me info: www.seanriddle.com/tms1000.html
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Do you have a better picture of the output PLA? If not, I see it only uses O0/O1 so that should be simple to solve. *edit* this is what I can make out of it: http://tsk-tsk.net/net/temp/searsfollowme_metal_opla.pngBy the way, is there any marking on the PCB that proves that it's Tiger Copycat?
Last edited by hap; 04/13/16 11:15 PM.
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I do. I'll post it and let you know. For some reason, O3-O6 are tied together, but unused. <edit>It looks like you got it. <edit2>There are no logos or copyrights on the PCB; the only text is CC REV B. CC is probably Copy Cat? The later Tiger Copy Cat that I have only has this on the PCB: WS 8107-1. The cases are extremely similar. The later game has cutouts for switches that are no longer used that are covered by a sticker.
Last edited by seanriddle; 04/13/16 11:24 PM.
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Oops, I meant to reply to this and forgot. I tried my scanner's descreening filter when I scanned the backgrounds, but it definitely made them look fuzzier, and I couldn't decide which looked better. It's likely that someone has a better descreening filter that could be applied to the backgrounds. I used to do this with CD covers and such a lot... If I can remember my steps, I'll try them on the background and see how it works... What resolution do you scan them at? One of the best ways to de-screen is to scan at a really high resolution (1200 or 2400 dpi), then apply some de-screen techniques, and re-size the image to 600 or 300 dpi equivalent if you don't need the giant images. The only way to really remove them is to lightly blur the image to force them to blend (ultimately, that's what descreeners are doing, but with algorithms tuned to the print patterns and such), which causes the softness you were noticing. But if you do that at something at least twice the resolution you want in the end, when you re-size it, the softness goes away for the most part... Sometimes just scanning at a really high resolution, and then re-sizing the image is enough to hide it adequately. Just depends on the printing techniques used on the original image. The later Tiger Copy Cat that I have only has this on the PCB: WS 8107-1. The cases are extremely similar. The later game has cutouts for switches that are no longer used that are covered by a sticker. I think I have an original-release Copy Cat (and several generations of it)... If I can find them, I can take a look and see how they compare.
Last edited by Rik; 04/14/16 05:21 AM.
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I used to do this with CD covers and such a lot... If I can remember my steps, I'll try them on the background and see how it works... What resolution do you scan them at? One of the best ways to de-screen is to scan at a really high resolution (1200 or 2400 dpi), then apply some de-screen techniques, and re-size the image to 600 or 300 dpi equivalent if you don't need the giant images. The only way to really remove them is to lightly blur the image to force them to blend (ultimately, that's what descreeners are doing, but with algorithms tuned to the print patterns and such), which causes the softness you were noticing. But if you do that at something at least twice the resolution you want in the end, when you re-size it, the softness goes away for the most part... http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showth...f&p=265016&viewfull=1#post2650161) Scans must be 400dpi or larger. If scanning in at 400dpi the "Descreen" or "Magazine" setting on your scanner software must be enabled.
2) Scans at 600dpi or above may or may not use the Descreen setting. If your scanner does not have Descreen as an option, you must scan at 600dpi or above. http://forum.redump.org/topic/4734/scanner-calibration-for-artwork-scanning/Method: Scan at 600 dpi (no color correction) Appy color profile Apply Descreen 4.0 filter ($20 for the home version) resize to 300 dpi using "bicubic sharper" Fix damage with rubber stamp tool save as png (large but better than tiff while still being lossless).
Note for archival purposes 300 dpi makes sense as the halftone screen frequency is 145lpi therefore 300dpi is just over twice the screen resolution. The res nees to be more that the halftone resolution because of the non-halftone parts of the image (playstation logos/ text).
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Yep, those would be minimum guidelines. I always overdo it though as I don't want to have to scan anything twice... 600dpi is minimum, 1200dpi is better if you can. Higher than that is probably over kill for the stuff we are doing. Always turn off color correction and any other manipulation the scanning software wants to do (auto contrast, brightness, etc...) I don't use commercial filters (although the Descreen one I've heard it pretty good). I use several steps involving Gaussian blur, unsharp mask, the resizing technique... I've always done it manually, and I've never liked the ones built into the scanner software (but my scanner is a few years old, I can only assume that has improved with time). Are the original scans available? The Lone Ranger link doesn't seem to work...
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Rik- I will rescan the backgrounds and upload them. Thanks!
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I uploaded info on the newer Tiger Copy Cat game. The TI Master Selection 1983 doc says that the 20-pin version of the TMS1700 is the TMS1730, with 5 O outputs and 6 R outputs, but doesn't show the pinout. I'm not completely sure which of the 8 O and 9 R outputs were used- I tried to guess from the die shot. But 22 pads were bonded on the die, although the chip only had 20 pins. For some reason, 2 of the unused O output pads were bonded to. www.seanriddle.com/tms1000.html
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