A range of the later Psion Series 3 machines are in for 0.253, namely the Series 3a, 3c, 3mx, Siena, Workabout, and Acorn Pocket Book II.
...
We are now able to dump internal ROM and Solid State Disks via serial link to PC, so if anyone has any Series 3 machines and Solid State Disks then get in touch to get them dumped.
Do you already have the Psion Revo? I own a German model with all original accessories and AFAIK there is a program to dump the rom for preservation. Due to soldered batteries and flimsy construction likely not many have survived in working condition.
https://wuffs.org/blog/building-a-psion-emulatorhttps://www.r3uk.com/index.php/tech...mako-disassembly-and-battery-replacementAfter years of storage (fortunately not moist) I tried to recharge mine without success; the screen flashed on/off with beeps and red LED (fast charge) was flickering red. So I dismantled it to remove the infamous soldered NiMH battery, which already leaked (white salt) and had corroded the voltage converter/IrDa PCB. After dismantling the rear case, the screen stayed dead and reset did not help. Apparently someone had superglued the battery cable plug into its connector; it needed extreme prying with small screwdrivers to get it out, which may have damaged its solder joints. (I have cutted off the leaking cells, keeping temperature sensor intact, and wired a battery box with 2x NiMH for test.) Even thoroughly cleaning and reflowing the solder on the voltage PCB with rosin flux and hot air SMD soldering station did not help, despite the infamous foil cable to the main unit (I unplugged it) measured ok. Apparently I had jammed a piece of the adhesive foil into that connector while replugging (hard to see with my lousy mole eyes). Also one of the overloaded flimsy lid spring plastic pegs was snapped (likely by design), so I superglued an u-shaped copper wire into its place to avoid loosing the spring.
So I dismantled the main case of the machine, which was another ordeal. The silicon keyboard mat is coated with weak adhesive, which may fail to stick if it gets dusty.
CAUTION: Never use force during keyboard removal - mine possibly had a superglue spill (not by me) under the "5" key, so peeling it off ripped a 6mm hole into the mat; fortunately no contact ripped out, so it still works. (I later patched the spot with adhesive film.) The main PCB (held by small screws) must be unhooked and pulled up and forward at the front rim first. Never lift at the rear edge first; it has a tiny push button switch (lid close contact) there which will snap off (I did) if lifted or pushed down at rear edge first.
After cleaning and replugging the foil cables, the screen still was dead, but made horizontal black lines etc. when holding the cable at certain angles. So I finally reflowed the solder (with rosing flux and hot air solder station) of all small components and connectors, which made the screen come back to life.
Important is that it needs 2 connected NiMH batteries and a cold reset (insert wires into both holes for 10 seconds while plugged in) to start properly. The battery charging voltage seems to be software controlled and without batteries can be anywhere between 2 and 6V when the controller starts crashed. Using only an electrolytic capacitor (I tried 2200uF) does not stabilize supply voltage to a safe enough level to run properly, so it tends to crash during beeps and the red LED (fast charge) flickers instead of staying on or off.
Currently I have no battery pack installed, but only soldered 2 thin wires to the outside to hook up an external battery pack when needed. Because I am not actively using the Psion Revo and will not regularly charge it, this is the safest way to prevent further leak damage of the hardware to preserve it.