@MilanSK are you able to try this method on any of the games you own?
Already did.
With big thanks to azya and his collaborative approach I've successfully dumped the following units:
Popy Electronics (Animest) -
Dr. Slump Arale Ncha! BychaGakken -
Tom & Jerry PrankLansay -
La Traversée (a.k.a. Gakken -
Jumping Boy / Pyonkichi)
Although one might think all games from a particular vendor should run on the same chip family (just like it was for Game&Watch) it's actually not true.
For example, Gakken - Jumping Boy (mentioned above) runs on Toshiba, while
Donkey Angler runs on NEC, and both
Kitchen Panic and
Search Light run on Hitachi.
Also not every QFP60 chip from Toshiba uses the same pinout as for which azya discovered his method. For example: Casio -
Crazy Bee (T7764S)
Might be interesting to explore Matsushima/ETIC/Hanimex/Texet -
Astro Destroyers AD15 (T6847A, 67 pin) and
Grab Man GM16 (assumed to run on Toshiba as well), along with their calculator versions:
Astro Destroyers AD115,
Grab Man GM116Here's the list of good candidates for further investigation:
Gakken - Cornerless card Series
Popy Electronics - Animest - Card Series
Bandai - Dragonball Z Series, Mattel - Joy Series, 3in1 Series
(of course, without excluding the other series and vendors)
If you find chips with the following pinout they appear to be good candidates for azya's method as well:
Pins 1-11: LCD segments
Pins 12-15: input/output (buttons, controls)
Pins 16-21: input/output (buttons, controls)
Pin 22: buzzer, sound
Pin 23: +3V (the positive battery terminal "+"; connected with pin 24 on many units)
Pin 25: 0V (the negative battery terminal "-")
Pin 26: ACL/Reset/Clear
Pins 27 and 28: connected via resistor
Pins 29 and 30: crystal oscillator (might be missing if the game does not have a clock feature)
Pins 31-34: LCD COMs
Pins 35-60: LCD segments
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/ovaRt2F.jpeg)